Moly en hoe ons hom doen

[Ben]

Piet ja ek dink dit kan dalk wees......my skoonmaak roetine na elke skiet sessie is as volg, ek haal eers alle Carbon uit my loop en dan verwyder en omtrent 60-80% van die koper....dan maak ek die loop mooi droog en stoor my geweer met n ligte laag olie in die loop.
Voor my skiet gister het ek ALLE olie verwyder en n droe Molly mop so 20 strokes deur die loop gestoot.
Ek gebruik Boretech se Carbon en Boretech se Copper Solvent...
Hier is my data soos gister gesien:

Skoot 1 - 2895
Skoot 2 - 3028
Skoot 3 - 2993
Skoot 4 - 2976
Skoot 5 - 2965
Skoot 6 - 2976
Skoot 7 - 2961
Skoot 8 - 2971

Ek dink omrede Boretech op hule website se dat hulle Carbon Cleaner ook Molly Verwyder het ek dalk onnodig daai Molly mop deur my loop gaan druk...
Ek sal wag om te kyk wat is Siebert se data as hy gaan skiet maar soos mens kan aflei uit daai laaste 5 skote was my ES baie goed daarna.....Akuraatheid was ook baie goed, dalk effe beter as voorheen??

Het n groep op 300m geskiet en kondisies was nie lekker nie....baie mirage!

Berger 95gn VLD Molly.jpg

[Capt. Yoda]

Pieta my eerste skote uit n loop wat skoon gemaak is en toe weer bq by gekom was met my moly mop was so 20fps laer as die volgende skote, akuraatheid was reg gewees van skoot 2 af.

[Ben]

Ek het na laas vrydag se shoot my loop skoon gemaak soos normaal en net gisteraand voordat ek vandag gaan skiet het my loop weer mooi droog gemaak, met n surgical spirits lappie alle olie verwyder en toe met my Molly mop twee strokes deur my loop gegee....
Vandag se skote

1 - 2904
2 - 2982
3 - 2962
4 - 2959
5 - 2980

My Target spoed is 2970ft/s so ek dink soos Siebert hier bo se daai molly mop is nie nodig nie.....

[Heinds]

Ek volg die draad...


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[Capt. Yoda]

Ja die Moly is klaar op die staal, ek gaan van nou af ook net skoonmaak en as ek hom met oli bere net droog patch, lappie surgical spirits deur sit en skiet

[Piet Pille]

Siebert- sit daai fotos hier op van daai 215gr Hybrids wat jy nou laaste geskiet het

[Regie]

Waar koop mense die moly hier in pe area manne

[Capt. Yoda]

Regie dis bq skaars nou, Piet stuur vir ons uit Nam uit nou maar die winkels se hulle gaan weer binnekort kry

Piet hiers hy

Ek, Ben en Cronje het bq gaan kyk of ons ladings mooi loop vandag en so paar groepe geskiet

EK het so bq met my lading in my "30Mag" aka 30.06 om sy node gespeel en so paar patrone .2gr op en 2x .2gr (.4gr dan in totaal laer) gelaai om seker te maak ek het dam bq speling as dit vinnig koud word in die veld.

Die 3 groen sirkels links is 3 190gr Kriek tyken koels met n lading wat ek met QL geraai het hulle meet so 7.5mm ctc as ek reg onthou. Die 3 rooies was die laaste 3 Berger Hybrids toe die hitte van die KD ook al die ret laat hop het van die mirage. Die eerste 9 skote met die Hybrids het 5.7mm ctc gemeet en al 12 Bergers was net so onder die 17mm ctc

12 x 215gr gemolyde Berger Hybrids op 100m

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff511/siebertn/Reloading/DSC_0212_zpsnqmi0cvv.jpg

[Piet Pille]

"....Die eerste 9 skote met die Hybrids het 5.7mm ctc gemeet en al 12 Bergers was net so onder die 17mm ctc....."

....... en dit is hoekom ek ook die moly gaan probeer!!!

Ongelooflike konstandheid Siebert!

[Ben]

"....Die eerste 9 skote met die Hybrids het 5.7mm ctc gemeet en al 12 Bergers was net so onder die 17mm ctc....."

....... en dit is hoekom ek ook die moly gaan probeer!!!

Ongelooflike konstandheid Siebert!

Ja Piet...

Daai iets anders!

[Capt. Yoda]

Het die 243 ok weer bq geskiet, hy het nou so 160 skote in die laaste 3weke deur hom van ek hom laas skoon gemaak het. In totaal sekee nou so 250 skote deur hom van ek begin Moly het.

POA kol het ek geskiet om na te mik toe so 3 clcicks links en daai 3skote toe weer 2of so op en 2 regs en daai 3 geskiet.
95gr Ballistics tips op 100m maar gaan nou bq 87gr VLDs in hom skiet

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff511/siebertn/DSC_0237_zpsqtrmunvq.jpg

[Wouter Roets]

Cappie/Ben

Dankie vir die deel van julle ondervindings en gedagtes. Hierdie is baie interessant en en verseker leersaam. Het die draad ook na stickey toe verander.

Groetnis
Wout

[Ben]

Dankie Wouter,
Ek het gister my ondervinding van die naweek hier geplaas maar lyk my ek het nie submit nie so kom ons probeer weer....

Ons het laas Saterdag in n gong skiet kompetiesie deelgeneem! Onder andere ek, Siebert, Stompe, Vlakvark Soldaat, Gerhardu en nog so paar manne.

Nou ek weet Captain Oblivious en sy 243 ervaar tans bietjie huweliks probleme maar my Savage skiet nog van dag een bitter mooi met die 95gn VLD's, elkgeval na ons laaste baan sessie het ek die gewer skoon gemaak soos normaal, eers alle carbon en toe koper. Olie lappie deur die loop en bere in kluis.

Die vrydag voor die kompetiesie is ek laaste keer baan toe om net alles te gaan "double check". Voordat ek skiet sit ek Lappie met surgical spirits deur die loop om alle olie te verwyder en hierdie keer sit en niks molly in die loop nie (die vorige kere het ek mos die loop met n "bore-mop" vol molly gelap)

Eerste skoot vrydag is so 80ft/s laag. Daarna is ek terug op my node spoed.

Wat vir my baie interesant is, vandat ek molly is my spoed Baie meer konstant! Ek dink dit het te doen met neck tension en hoe die molly die koel uit die dop laat "gly"
Siebert sal kan getuig maar dit is ongelooflik om te voel hoe n koel wat molly op het in n dop seat.....daar is geen weerstand.

Oor my laaste drie baan sessies was my gemiddelde spoed met my 243 as volg:
1 - 2972 ft/s
2 - 2967 ft/s
3 - 2971 ft/s
My Target spoed is 2970 ft/s en alle ammo is gelaai die dag voordat ek gaan skiet, dus onder ander omstandighede.

Groete
Ben

[Wouter Roets]

Ben

Baie interessant wat jy se. Ter aansluiting wil ek ook iets noem. Wanneer ek nuwe doppe kry sal ek die nekke of soms net die expander ball deur hierdie nuwe doppe hardloop. Ek gebruik dan Redding se Imperial Dry Neck Lube. As ek dan koeels seat dan voel dit ook baie meer konstand en dieselfde vir elke seating as daarsonder. Hierdie wat jy beskryf met die moly is baie dieselfde en ek glo nog meer iniform as met die Dry lube.

Ek het hierdie nie gedoen toe ons nou gou gelaai het vir die nuwe Ruger Presition Rifle nie en dit kan dalk heel moontlik verklaar hoekom ons nie kleiner groeppe gekry het nie. Daar was konstand sulke klein fyers gewees en hierdie proses kan dalk heel moontlik dit verbeter of uitskakel. Sal bietjie kyk. Persoonlik is ek nog altyd van die opinie dat die beginfase van die drukkuwe wat veral bepaal word deur neck tention van kardinale belang is vir akkuraadheid.

Ben/Cappie ek was nog altyd onder die indruk as n mens moly is een van die voordele dat n mens baie minder of beter gestel dalk jou loop vir n lang ruk nie hoef skoon te maak nie. Basies copper/carbon equilibremuim te hardloop wat teoreties met die moly net nog langer behoort te hou. Julle is nie lus om dit te toets nie? Indien dit wel so is kan dit werklik net nog meer voordele inhou.

Groetnis
Wout

[Ben]

Wouter ek is mar een van daai manne wat baie sal se maak my geweer te veel skoon......Ek maak na elke sessie, al is dit net 5 skote veral alle carbon uit my loop uit!

Ek sukkel nog om alles mooi onder die knieg te kry maar as ek vandat ek molly my loop skoonmaak (ek gebruik boretech se C4) daai eerste paar lappies pikswart, en selfs na jy n nat lappie deur sit en jy los jou geweer vir so 20-25min uit, kom daai lappie donker swart en diep pers/blou wat daarop dui dat daar dan reeds baie koper uit die loop verwyder word.

Nou as die carbon uit is en ek wil koper uithaal (ook Boretech) is die koper neerslag nie so erg as bv my 308 wat ek selde doen, maar waar ek nie molly gebruik nie.

Om nou jou vraag te beantwoord, Ek het al gelees oor molly en een van die eienskappe is dat dit bleikbaar vog aantrek, daarom my huiwering om so toets te doen. Ek weet Siebert het op n stadium met n lee Dryfmiddel blik as houer sy eie "rotary tumbler" gemaak. Die doel was om sy koels in die molly en water mengsel te tumble om die molly so aan die koel te kry. Dit het gewerk maar soos ek verstaan toe hy daai blik n week of twee later oopmaak toe was daar heelwat roes binne reeds gewees....

Nog n eienskap van molly wat ek by n baie wel bekende skrywer in Suid Afrikaanse sirkels en expert op geweer kalibers veral is dat in sy woorde "moet mens molly bestuur"
Wat hy vertel het is dat as jy met molly skiet moet jy minstens elke 50-60 skote jou loop skoonmaak. Hy het my verduidelik dat die molly binne die loop "aanpak" in ringe (amper soos carbon) en as jy dit nie gereeld verwyder nie dit n nadelige effek op geweer en koel sal he.

Ek weet nog nie naby genoeg enigsins van molly om dit te bevestig of argumenteer nie, maar soos alles wat mens nuut aanpak, bere ek dat maar in "file 13" soos hulle se.

Ek dink een van die grootste voordele van molly tot dusver is los hande die neck tension.....Ek sal graag wil meer leer oor presies hoe dit werk maar glo soos wat jy verduidelik is baie na aan reg!

[Wouter Roets]

Ben

Dankie vir die antwoord. Ek is ook een wat my geweer na elke skiet sessie skoon gemaak het voordat hy kluis toe gaan. Deesdae moet ek bieg dat ek sommer plein weg sleg geraak het in die departement. So dit is jammer om te hoor dat moly nie hierdie voordeel vir n mens gee nie.

Groetnis
Wout

[Capt. Yoda]

Het die naweek weer bq lading ontwikkeling met n nuwe kaliber en moly gedoen en n paar lesings oor n crony geksiet.
Lading is nog so 160fps laer as wat hy gaan wees as ek hom die naweek skiet maar die Magneto het weer bq inligting verskaf.

Het die nuwe kamer en loop met surgical spirits skoon gemaak na hy heel skoon gemaak was, bq moly met die mop aan gewend en toe weer heel skoon gepatch. Van nou af sal ek nie weer moly met die "mop" aan wend nie was maar net omdat die kamer nuut gesny was.

5 patrone gelaai vir n begin lading met n lading van 43gr 385 agter n 105gr amaxe (gemoly)
Eerste skoot 2807 en toe van skoot 2 af 2830, 2828, 2833,2829 so daai eerste skoot was weer daai 25of so fps laer as die volgende skoot maar ek sal dit nou toets die naweek as ek die eerste skoot uit n skoon loop skiet.

Die volgende 3 x 5 skoot strings het toe so gelyk

43.3gr 2839, 2838, 2837, 2838, 2837. ES oor 5 skote 2fps (dop 96% vol), spoed was baie naby aan die laer node en die 3 skoot groep wat ek toe op die einde met 3 patrone geskiet het van die laidng wat ek gelaai het vir n groep was toe seker so 5mm ctc gemeet

43.5gr 2854, 2861, 2859, 2855, 2861. ES oor 5 skote 7fps(dop 96.4% vol), 3 skoot groep na die spoed geneem was was so 10mm ctc

43.8gr 2878, 2867, 2872, 2869, 2873. ES oor 5 skote 11fps (dop 97.1% vol) 3 skoot groep na die spoed geneem was was so 12mm ctc

Ek skiet eers die spoed met die magneto en dan skiet ek n groep sonder die magneto as ek klaar spoed gevat het. Intersant hoe die ES op gaan hoe verder ek van die node af beweeg al gaan die dop filling op.

Met die "nuwe" lading wat ek nou aangepas het vir my node spoed sal die die dop nou 100% vol wees so ek hoop die ES is in die single digits met die finale lading.

Die doppe is geklas volgens H2o volumes, doppe se lengtes is dieselfde gensy, nekke geskil, doppe is gesize in n Redding FL bushing DIE met n bushing wat elke dop presies 2thou nek tension op die koel gee en primer pockets is gesny.

[Francoisv]

Vanaand die eerste keer met water gemoly. Sommer so met 'n houertjie in die rotary tumbler. Pragtig uitgekom. Dankie
cappie.

[IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016082 ... 5fdb71.jpg[/IMG]

[LoopSoosStroop]

So Kaptein, mollie jy nog?

[Ben]

Mooi Daai Francois!


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[Capt. Yoda]

So Kaptein, mollie jy nog?

Al die pad ja, ek het nog niks raak geloop wat my van plan sal laat verander nie, net die gevoel van n koel in n dop seat wat nie gemoly is nie maak my gatvol.
As my moly klaar is wil ek bq HBN ook probeer maar tot dan moly ek n ding swart

[LoopSoosStroop]

Ok, dis goeie nuus Capt.

Waar kry ek van die goed?

[Capt. Yoda]

LSS, Huidiglik wag Nic Yale vir n klomp so dit sal seker in die volgende maand of so weer op die winkels se rakke wees

[LoopSoosStroop]

Righto, thanks!

[Jakes]

Pure Moly Coating (Article 1)

I started experimenting with moly greasing about 30 years ago and moly coating projectiles about 20 years ago now, using them in several center fires. As far as I am concerned it works well for me.
During one of my tests I fired a CMC Howa 223 Rem , 300 times without cleaning and the accuracy at 300 rounds was just as good as it was at 30 rounds. It had just returned from a two week trip where it fired 200 odd rounds without cleaning with any bore solvents just a wipe through with oil when I got home each night. This was some years ago and under the same circumstances today , I would clean properly each day.
During coating , Molybdenum Disulphide and nothing else goes on the projectiles. The tumbling process at 1.5 revolutions per second with 3 mm hard steel balls produces a different product to other commercial processes. If done properly it results in a deep coating that doesn’t come off on your fingers. I believe that pure moly coating will give increased barrel life , cooler barrel temperatures , greatly reduced copper fouling , reduced barrel cleaning , and increased accuracy , although I need to qualify this last statement.
I have found the following to be true in my barrels.
If you compare a 10 shot group from a clean barrel using moly projectiles against uncoated projectiles from the same clean barrel there generally will be little difference and I have noticed a tendency for the uncoated projectiles to group slightly tighter under these conditions.
The nature of the test favours the uncoated projectiles , but if you fire 50 rounds of both projectiles without cleaning at 20 to 30 rounds the uncoated projectiles will start to loose accuracy due to fouling and the moly projectiles will still retain accuracy way beyond that. The nature of this test favours the Moly projectiles.
It takes a while for the moly to coat the barrel and settle down. The results of a test depends on what test you do and how you analyse the results. This is what I have experienced and anyone who is interested needs to try for themselves to see if they like Moly coating or not , but you need to Know what is on your projectiles , just because its black doesn’t mean its Pure Moly.
If you do try it , here are some of the things I discovered. Never push a dry tight patch through a barrel that has used moly as it can grab the patch and be very difficult to move. Molybdenum Disulphide has a high coefficient of friction against other materials but a low coefficient of friction against itself. This is why it can grip to the barrel and bed into the pores of the steel but not build up on itself to any harmful degree but there is some build up going on for it to work as a friction modifier . It does the same to the projectile as a result the atoms of Sulphur between the bore and projectile act as a friction modifier. I don’t like to described it as a lubricant. I believe what’s happening is , the projectile is introducing new molecules of moly into the barrel with every shot and for what ever reason there is a slight build up of free Moly on the surface of the deeper bedded Moly this build up stays about the same for at least 300 shots , which is as far as I have gone without cleaning. This slight build-up is enough to allow the sulphur atoms within the moly on the projectile and barrel to slide over each other and reduce bullet to bore friction. Also a property of Moly (MOS2) is that friction decreases as load and speed increase. The bonds between the Sulphur layers are weaker than the bonds between the Molybdenum layers. The covalent bonds of both are strong in the basal plane of the Lamellar structure. The “slip” occurs on the Sulphur atoms. Even between highly loaded stationary surfaces the lamellar structure is able to prevent contact. In the direction of motion the lamellas easily shear over each other resulting in low friction. After a body has caused a sliding frictional movement against the Lamellar structure the particles line up in an end to end linear arrangement in the direction of movement that gives moly its load bearing ability.

Large particles best perform on relative rough surfaces at low speed, finer particles on relative smooth surface and higher speeds. Particle size affects load carrying ability. Large particle size carries more load but can create more abrasion. Friction is not affected by particle size. Friction decreases as load and speed increase. Test results suggest that removing water vapor contamination decreases friction in molybdenum disulfide. *** Within its operating range Moly (MOS2) has superior load bearing and surface speed performance values as compared to Graphite or Tungsten Disulphide ***
This is the reason why it is important to achieve a good deep coating of Moly on the projectile because the projectile sacrifices most of its coating to the bore. A bad coating will run out of Moly as the projectile moves up the barrel and can result in an increase of copper fouling at the muzzle end compared to the chamber end. I did notice some slightly darker and more obvious marks just on the lands of the barrel after about 200 shots , after thorough cleaning at 300 shots they had completely gone. This was observed with a doctors otoscope. The thickness would have been microscopic but I believe that it was the slight build-up that I refer to above showing up a bit more at the lands. Never believe that Moly will protect your bore from corrosion it will not exclude oxygen or moisture from the surface of the steel as well as an oil or grease based coating, clean and oil your barrel after shooting as normal, clean the oil out before shooting with patches as normal. I believe that the section below shows that there is good scientific indication that it is possible for Moly to hold some moisture or other corrosive elements in intimate contact with the barrel if stored incorrectly and without proper cleaning the bore. This is the only potential negative that I have experienced with Moly.
Molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) is insoluble in water and unreactive toward dilute acids in its normal state. MoS2 oxidizes very slowly in atmospheres up to 600° F. In these low temperature ranges it oxidizes more slowly than Tungsten Disulfide (WS2). In dry oxygen free atmospheres it functions as a friction modifier up to 1300° F. Its melting point is 1185 °C, It starts oxidizing in air at around 315 °C. We need to ask, what is the flame temperature in the chamber and can it be considered an oxygen free environment. Research information has suggested that the temperature in the chamber and the first couple of inches of the barrel can reach 1400° F or more for a short period of time. Further more, oxygen is required to burn and the powder carries its own supply of oxygen. This would tend to suggest that there is the potential for some oxidation of the Molybdenum disulfide ( MoS2) in the barrel. Oxidation products would be formed in the chamber end of the barrel and carried by the passing of subsequent bullets along the barrel. The most likely spots for oxidation to occur are the same areas likely to suffer from normal flame erosion; peaks and edges. These are exposed to more of the hot gasses so the temperature can more closely approach the temperature required to produce oxidation products. There is also the coating effect of the moly to consider. It will have a protecting effect against some of the flame heat because the oxidation products are working at the surface of the lamellar structure where there is more potential oxygen. I feel this will cancel out some of the erosion and as long as proper cleaning and lubricating happens after shooting it should limit the potential for any damage.
The oxidation products of Molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) are :----- Molybdenum trioxide (MoO3) and Sulfur dioxide. (SO2).
Whenever sulfur compounds are involved rising temperature excites the bonds that hold the various molecules together. Too much temperature breaks the bonds. The breakdown products containing sulfur are not good and can cause corrosion. When sulfur compounds are heated they react with any oxygen present to make Sulfur dioxide (SO2) which reacts with water when present to make the primary product Sulfurous acid) H2SO3 (weak acid) and a lesser reaction product of SO3 (sulfur trioxide) which reacts with water to make H2SO4 (sulfuric acid) (very strong corrosive acid). So, since there is H2O present from the combustion of the nitrocellulose powder at elevated temp, the O2 (oxygen ) and water could get a jump start on breaking down the MoO3 ( Molybdenum trioxide ) especially if some were in the vapor phase for a few micro seconds from the flash of the powder. The interior barrel surfaces warming up would also support the reaction of the O2 and H2O with the MoO3 when present. Over time , atmospheric moisture ( humidity) could also react with any residual MoS3.
Molybdenum trisulfide ( MoS3) is potentially hygroscopic based on some reports from National Laboratory , Los Alamos USA and causes many of the friction problems in a standard atmosphere. MoS3 is the less common form of the Sulfides of Molybdenum. It is most likely less stable than MoS2 and can break down. When it does, there is an extra sulfide atom looking to "mate" with something. It could be air or water or both together. Molybdenum trisulfide is itself a lubricant in dry atmospheres. Molybdenum trioxide (MoO3) is not abrasive on its own , “ but attracts moisture vapor contamination”. Sulfur dioxide (SO2) can react further in the presence of water vapor to produce acidic compounds like Sulfuric acid (H2SO4).” The presence of the Sulfur Dioxide ( SO2 ) alone is enough to react with water vapor to cause concern without any of the other potential multi-valent reactions.
Question to Industrial Chemist :---
“Would you say that there is a big possibility that after Molybdenum trisulfide (MoS3) is formed that this chemical could be the culprit that attracts the Water ( H20) from the air into reaction with Sulfur Dioxide ( SO2) to form Sulfurous Acid ( H2SO3) & Sulfuric Acid (H2SO4)?”
Chemists answer :---
“Most likely. The reaction product is going to be predominately H2SO3 (sulfurous acid - weak) but at the higher temps of burning powder it is hard to say how much extra H2SO4 is formed. Any amount would not be good over the long run if it stayed in contact with the barrel. H2SO4 would just stay in the barrel and not evaporate. Some of the MoS2 may be protecting the barrel surface as it has filled in the microscopic pores ; that is why it is a lubricant in the first place. Most likely the MoS2 could not provide a perfect barrier against corrosion. If the MoS3 is co-mingled with the MoS2 or just on the surface of a relatively thin layer, the reaction could take place over time.
Regarding oxidation and temperature, look at it this way. You have overly excited molecules of Molybdenum and Sulfur "in heat". They want to mate with somebody else at elevated temperatures and share electrons to make themselves complete again. Well along comes some Oxygen (O2) molecules and maybe some Water (H2O). Some of the Moly will join with O2, some will find other molecules such as sulfides and link up with them to make Molybdenum Trisulfide ( MoS3). Some of the sulfides will link with some of the Oxygen (O2) to make sulfur dioxide. Everybody is looking to find a mate. The molecules are breaking bonds. The situation is very dynamic. If there is one product that has a lower final energy state and precipitates out, then everything goes that way and the side reactions are very limited. In this dynamic Moly situation some of the less stable combinations break down about as fast as they mate together. If one were to deprive the reaction environment of Oxygen (O2), the products would be different. As the temp comes down, the reactions may shift around and finally settle out with MoS2, MoS3, SO2, etc in various quantities. As the reaction products like SO2 wait around on the surface at the lower temps, they can react with H2O and make H2SO3 or the less amount of SO3 reacts with H2O to form H2SO4.” End of quote.
Conclusion:-- It is obvious from the above that the Oxidation products of Moly have an affinity with moisture and Oxygen and that some are “ Hygroscopic ”. There is a real potential for harm to the barrel of the “ unprepared ” owner. Proper precautions should be taken to store firearms in the driest conditions possible. Clean barrels properly after a shooting session and lubricate or grease the barrel before putting it away. If the gun is to be stored for the season then thoroughly scrub out as much moly as possible with bore solvents, JB paste, kroil etc. and grease the bore up well. Inspect the bore from time to time during storage and patch it out and re lubricate. Weapons that are used and stored in humid hot climates continually would be at a greater risk. Stainless Steel barrels may have better resistance to potential corrosion but they are not immune. One should not dismiss any precautions just because you have a SS barrel. Perspective:-- To put this all in context I must say that I am still going to use Moly (MOS2) in the same barrels that I have in the past. This new information has not changed the beneficial aspects that I have gained from using Moly for many years. I have always known that there was an “ affinity ” with moisture and I have observed the affects of not cleaning properly. This information is not designed to put fear into the moly user, quite the contrary. The more you know about a subject the better you can use it to your advantage. I hope this will allow people to make a more informed decision whether to use Moly and the correct purpose and conditions to use it in. Pattern of use, Climate in your area, storage conditions, ability to clean regularly all play a part in the decision. Experience has shown me that with care and correct use the risks of premature corrosion problems are minimal
A special thanks to Ron Teufel for providing chemical reaction information and proof reading of this section concerning the Oxidation products of Moly. I would also like to thank Carl Porter for his help in providing information and being the catalyst to bring me to try for a better understanding of any potential down side to moly coating ( MoS2) and how to manage it.
Never substitute an uncoated projectile or a projectile with unknown coating material into a case with a powder load worked up for Pure Moly coated projectiles. Moly will lower the chamber pressures for a given load so you will have to gently increase the load to get back to original velocity. Moly is not a cure all for bad shooting guns if it shoots bad with uncoated it will probably do similar with coated. Clean your barrel thoroughly before using Moly projectiles and if you like them don’t use uncoated ones in that barrel again. Moly works best in shorter barrels as it tends to run out as it moves down the barrel if you get any fouling it will be worse near the muzzle. This can be fixed by making your coating process put on a good deep layer of moly , after you have finished coating take a projectile out into full sunlight and if you can see any coppery colour ( except in cannular ) through the moly coat then it’s not good enough. Also you can condition the bore before or during shooting , with moly slide , work it in with a back and forth rod action then loose patch out the excess. Look down the bore if you can see globs of moly slide it’s too much , patch it out and remove the excess. It's best to let the barrel dry for 5 minuets before shooting. I don’t bother with moly conditioning as my coating does all I need. Moly has shown a decrease in the amount of deformation to the base of the projectile and a reduction in the depth of the engraving effect of the rifling after firing due to its load carrying Lamellar structure as explained above , this could explain why in America they have put forward theories that Moly increases the ballistic coefficient of projectiles. I can’t confirm this but I suspect that it does give a slight Ballistic Coefficient increase but it may be too small to measure
How To Moly Coat Bullets (Article 2)

First of all you will need a tumbler of some kind it needs to turn at about 60 RPM. Don’t laugh but you can use an electric concrete mixer with the Tumbler barrel held in the middle with bits off foam rubber it works great.
This gives you an idea of the correct speed of rotation. The barrel should be large enough to accommodate the maximum amount of the largest calibre that you will do. It should have 3 or 4 small fins along it’s inside length about 10 mm high. This makes sure that the projectiles mix around, rise and fall. A square shape container should work too . The barrel should be filled with approx. 3 to 4 kilo’s of 3 to 3.5 mm steel balls. The quantity will depend on the size of the barrel and the amount of projectiles put in. I use an RCBS tumbler barrel and my tumbler was made to take this barrel . It turns faster than the RCBS tumbler and the barrel runs horizontal to the centre axis. It does everything from 17 cal. to 50cal projectiles. Any of the commercial tumblers on the market will work fine but will need extra running time per coating session or an extra session as they turn slower than my unit. They make them turn very slowly so they are not practical for mass production. The bigger the calibre the smaller the number of projectiles you can do at one time. The only projectile design that is easy to moly coat is the hollow point or protected point that means any jacketed projectile that has no lead exposed at the nose. Be careful with large hollow points that are the same size as the steel balls as they tend to get a ball stuck in the jacket nose. You can fill large hollow points with nail polish, leave it a few days to dry. No! I don't have a favourite colour!
If you are real desperate you can trim exposed lead off with a sharp knife exactly at the jacket nose to make a flat protected point that will coat ok. I do this with Rem Core Lock projectiles and it works great.
Some people will tell you, that you don’t need steel balls at all when coating large calibre projectiles. This is partially true but I do not recommend the idea as the resultant coating will be patchy and inferior and the projectiles may suffer damage to the meplat (nose) or base edge affecting accuracy. The steel balls act as a buffer between the projectiles when they fall during the process and make sure that the surface of the projectile is evenly coated. I have tried this idea with some old 30 cal projectiles, it works but I did not like the results.
The Process
First step in the process is clean the projectiles, this must be done just before you are ready to tumble, don’t use old heavily tarnished bullets , use fairly new stuff. If bullets are badly tarnished they will need polishing in the tumbler using treated walnut media in a separate barrel, not the one used for moly coating. Then continue with the instructions immediately below.
To remove mild tarnish from projectiles place a litre of warm tap water in a plastic bowl and add half cup of CLR and stir. Place bullets in and stir them around with a plastic spoon you will see the tarnish disappear. Take them out and rinse in clean hot water twice. Place on a very clean tray and put out in sun to dry. You can use a hairdryer to speed it up but don’t use it too close and don’t use anything with more heat as you could melt the bullet cores. Make sure that there is no water left in hollow points. Don’t touch the bullets with bare hands as you will put grease on them. In a well ventilated area while wearing an approved protective breathing mask and after the bullets are dry rinse them in Shellite and dry again , this will not take long as the Shellite will evaporate quickly. While you are waiting for them to dry place one quarter of a tea spoon of Molybdenum Disulphide in the tumbler containing the steel balls and tumble for 2 minutes this just gets everything inside coated up, you don't have to do it again unless you clean the inside of the barrel at some stage. Open the barrel wearing a face mask and place another quarter of a tea spoon of Moly powder in , put in the ( 2-300 , 224 ) bullets without touching them with bare hands , tumble for 30 minutes.
Wearing a protective mask remove projectiles by pouring the bullets and steel balls into a sive of a size that will allow the balls to escape to a container below the sive , return the balls to tumbler barrel and close lid . Place bullets on a CLEAN cloth of adequate size to polish off the excess moly by rubbing gently over the bullets without touching them with bare skin. Place your hands under the edges of the cloth and fold up and over the projectiles and rub them around inside the cloth until they appear a shinny silvery grey. This cloth rubbing idea came from an article by Brendan Atkinson it is quicker cheaper and easier than the way I was doing it thanks Brendan. You are only trying to remove the loose surface moly so go easy. It only takes a few minutes. Replace in tumbler and add another quarter tea spoon of Moly powder. Tumble for a further half hour and repeat excess moly removal. Place bullets back in tumbler for third time but don’t add any more moly powder. Tumble for 15 minutes and remove and rub off excess. You should notice that very little moly will now come off on the cloth. Pick one up and it should not blacken your fingers. This is not the only way of doing it but I have found that it is simple and gives a very good coating in my equipment. Short cutting the process usually means short cutting the quality also.

In the past I have said , “don’t worry if your shinny silver grey projectiles go a dull grey colour after a few months storage it is just the shine going off the copper jacket underneath the moly coating. This may be only partially true. New information has indicated that some surface oxidation may also be happening, it has no detrimental affect that I have observed but the presence of a surface layer of Oxidation could cause the bullet to exhibit higher friction until the oxide layer is broken through in the bore. Store them in small air tight plastic containers to minimise this affect. Waxing may be a good idea after all to reduce any chance of oxidation during long storage but I still don’t like it in the barrel. A thin wipe of RCBS case lube works OK also.
Be very Stingy with the amount of moly you put in the tumbler barrel at first as it is easier to add extra and tumble again than it is to clean out the barrel if it becomes overloaded with moly.
Excessive moly on the projectiles will stop the steel balls from doing their job of pushing the moly powder into the pores of the projectiles jacket metal. The excess powder acts as a shock absorber on the surface of the jacket metal and no useful coating is achieved. This is the most common mistake. You will get a thin coating and that’s all no matter how long you tumble.
If the barrel does become badly overloaded with too much moly, separate projectiles from the steel balls and wash the balls in shellite and the inside of the tumbler barrel and leave to dry then start again. If there is only a slight overload then you can cut up some clean cloth into small pieces and place a dozen or so into the barrel and tumble for 5 minutes or so then separate them from the steel balls and discard the cloth patches. This will soak up moly from inside the tumbler barrel. After a bit of experience and experimentation it is very easy to achieve good results. You will have to experiment a bit with the time as all tumblers are a bit different. If bullets appear to have lumps of moly on them then you have too much moly in the tumbler , rub it off by placing projectiles on a clean cloth as described above and don’t add any more moly for the next tumble, until it clears. If they come out very shinny and the coat appears thin then add more moly but only a bit. It is very difficult to give absolute values as to the amount of Moly to use as it depends on so many factors such as number of bullets, calibre, amount of steel balls, speed of rotation, size of barrel and it goes on and on. You will learn the correct amount as you gain experience with your own system.
Materials
CLR is a household cleaning product. Shellite is available in supermarkets and hardware.
Molybdenum disulfide ( Moly powder) is available from bearing manufacturers and suppliers. Generally use finer grades but coarse grades may be useful for solid copper or machined type bullets because of its higher load bearing ability. Steel balls are available from bearing manufacturers and suppliers. Steel shot from gun shops No2 (.150) or BB (.180) should work ok. Treated walnut polishing media is available from gun shops, large granular size if possible. Elbow grease well you have to supply that!
Wear a face mask when opening the molly tumbler barrel and when removing the excess molly and at any time when there could be molly in the air, to protect your lungs. Don’t hang about near the tumbler during the waiting part of the process without wearing your mask.