JARACAL

Hier is 'n bespreking oor roeptegnieke wat vir my as leek goeie raad is. Ek dink dit kan tog baie relevant wees met Jakkies.


Fox Calling - Strategies you find successful
« on: January 20, 2015, 02:26:08 PM »
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Purpose of Thread:
This thread is designed for:
1. Anyone interested in learning techniques and strategies of fox calling.
2. A collaborative resource of tested fox hunting techniques/strategies/methods/theories to enable those wishing to learn from others experiences to trial and hopefully enhance their own success.
3. Those who wish to share their experience/s to add to the resource.

Hopefully others will be happy to put add what they have found does and does not work. This thread is going to have a great number of generalisations. Like all nature there is variation in foxes and with every rule there will be just as many exceptions. However there is a certain number of general rules that can be established with some science or just experience and possibly some that can be ruled out. This is a meant to be a work in progress and by no means complete or entirely correct. It will need other members to contribute their findings to be successful.

To enhance this thread I believe in terms of behaviour there are 3 main categories of foxes
1. Young foxes (pups and inexperienced dogs).
2. Mature foxes from remote areas. IE properties with limited human/working dog contact. Quieter parks/state forests etc.
3. Mature foxes from active areas. Areas where there is regular human/working dog activity and/or hunting.

Category 3 is really the type of fox we should be learning about. Category 1 (young foxes) are often brash and tend to break all the rules so where possible best indicate it being in this category as their behaviour/s wont necessarily be the same as more mature animals. Category 2 although tend not to be as silly as young foxes, still can be inquisitive and not as aloof and much easier to hunt than Cat 3.


Hand calling (whistling etc)
There are several whistles (Tenterfield, button, scotch pred, styrofoam on glass, shottie etc etc) but the one I have had the most success with is the Tenterfield, though I usually use a couple. The main advantage of calling over just stalking is, if a fox is nearby but difficult to see (keeping in mind a lot of foxes will remain in cover in daylight) you can flush them out and bring them to you. It often is shottie work (esp in bushy areas) as foxes can turn up right next you and often from a different area than you were expecting making them difficult to shoot at close range (esp with a varminter style rifle).

Being still and covering your outline or silhouette seems the most important. I usually will find a spot I can ‘blend in’ near an area I believe a fox may be, then do a few whistles. Most import is to be either down or across wind from where you think they are(never up wind). Wait and watch. Repeat on and off, varying sound level and time between. 10 -15mins then move on. If Im losing light I may stay in the spot until darkness (up to an hour). I have called foxes up a long time after starting (40 odd mins +) but more typically if you don’t see one in 15mins its unlikely you will see one at all. Someone told me once to keep a look out for birds flying off as they can indicate a fox moving in, I have found this to be a very good tip.


Remote Fox calling
Process:
Using the same basic principles as hand calling, I will bino an area pretty thoroughly, walk slowly but purposefully to where I want to place caller, turn it on then place it hidden behind a tuft of grass/rock/log etc. Then walk directly back without fluffing. Go back to the spot I can hide and wait and have another bino. Then call quietly for a min. Wait and bino. Then increase sound of call and then gently decrease sound, giving indication that the distressed animal is moving away. Look and bino wait for a min or two. Change call type and sound level (generally keeping on the quiet end). Depending on my position in relation to the caller I sometime blast the Tenterfield whistle (always have one and a button around my neck). I try to keep as still as possible. If Im lucky I will see a fox from a long way back, I tend to watch it for a while to see how it reacts. I wont let it get too close to the caller as Ive had them appear to sniff close to it then bolt, no doubt smelt my scent on or near it (one of the reasons I don’t like to fluff around when placing the caller) .

I have learnt the hard way not to be looking through binos whilst caller is actually calling. Had it on more than one occasion while binoing and not looking at the caller, a fox was virtually ontop of it and as a result bolted before I could even pick up the rifle. Face palm

I prefer my hiding spot to be around 100 to 150m back from caller in daylight, giving me very good field of view and less likely to be seen (the further back the more width seen). I prefer using the caller as having this field of vision and the fact the fox isn't moving directly towards you gives you more time to observer it and learn its behaviours.

Key things I have found:
I have noticed a few key differences with these over hand calling.

Quieter is louder. For some reason foxes seem more responsive to quieter calls using these callers. The Tenterfield whistle can blow out your ear drums and still be effective, but these callers seem to be more consistent with quieter calls. I usually increase sound levels on windy days, as it is obviously harder to hear. Be aware of noises around. If lots of birds are singing, there doesn’t seem much point in having a bird distress call as some of them sound very similar to general bird noises. I think you want the call to be more distinctive.

Effective calls. I think Ive called a fox in with just about every type of small distressed animal sound. Ive had them responding to 'fox calls' by barking back but haven't had them coming in. The high pitched panicky type calls seem to work really well. I have called in a few really old and one would assume wise fox with rodent distressed noises. My guess it is a reasonably common simple feed for them.

Placement. Placement of the caller is everything. Spots seem easier to find whistling, you quietly find a sheltered spot near a foxy area and blow away. I find you need to find an area open enough to see the caller but not too open to alert any nearby fox. You then need to have a decent hiding spot yourself with clear vision of the caller and surrounds. Finding good spots for me is half the battle. In general using a caller can give you less options, but sometimes they can offer an advantage.

To give an example there is a gorge on my property with thick scrub, fallen timber and a weedy creek line below. Classic fox country. I have seen foxes there many times over the years and Im sure there is a den or two in the vicinity. The top of the gorge is completely open paddock with little cover. I have tried whistling, okay with a shottie as the bloody things appear under your feet, found it hard to get them out in the open (Im sure they have seen me many times before I saw them). I started using the FoxPro down the gorge, no luck, then on the side, then top of the gorge, still no luck. The breeze really swings around here due to the steep nature of hills etc. So I figured even if they don't see me they must be able to scent me.

Finally I thought Id try place the caller way out in the open well before the gorge (so I didn't have to go near the gorge myself). This never worked when whistling as Im sure the bloody things could see me (nowhere decent to hide). The caller gave me the ability to hide 150m further back. Bingo - I have nailed 4 foxes on different days this year at this spot. I missed shooting at one (looking through binos further back while caller was on, when I looked back at the caller a sneaky fox sniffed it then bolted.

I kept calling (on and off) just in case and sure enough it or another one came back. Bang flop.

The other thing I have found is it seems more effective to place it with a cross rather than down wind. IE trying to draw foxes from a particular area, blackberry patch, creek bed etc I have had more success when the caller is placed with a cross breeze than directly down wind. Smarter foxes seem to want to be able to scent before running directly toward game. I had a classic example of this a couple of weeks ago. I saw a fox at night chewing on a carcass. I couldn't shoot it where I was and I didn't want it to hear me (too hard to quietly get past a fence line). I thought it could be ideal to really test the FoxPro, so I quietly walked out the caller about 50m along the fence line. Then got in position and played young distressed rat sound quietly. Had a red torch on the fox, it looked up and started trotting over. Great I thought, but the bloody thing diverted around, I lost sight of it as she snuck behind a tree line, then popped up downwind of me, stuck her nose in the air, I went to scope her but she bolted, no doubt smelt me. Pissed Off. If she trotted directly over I would have belted her! But at least I got to learn a little from it. Also good to see that some foxes still can look for fresh distressed game in lieu of an oldish carcass.

In other words I think if they cant get downwind easily, some of these wiser foxes wont take the risk.


Hopefully others will be happy to add in what they have found to work well or what they have found to be detrimental.

Nog interessante kommentaar

I do all of mine at night, on foot and using LED torches.

It's very dynamic and you don't stay still for long. Moving and calling and scanning with a torch in your hand looking for eyeshine.

This suits the hilly, rocky and creek line country around here quite well and I can access areas that no vehicle will get to - many of these areas hold fox dens. Furthermore, a fox sitting in open grass will be very evident from hundreds of metres away at night thanks to the eyeshine, whereas in the day you won't see them.

I've found it's very important to scan all around as some will come from the sides and from behind to see what is making the noise - and of course as near as possible a dark and windless night is best.

I use two whistles, namely a home made shotty brass whistle sometimes called the bombala type, and a Tenterfield style. One side of the shotty brass whistle is tuned so as to provide a quieter, more squeaky sound. It's an easy whistle to use, you just blow through it - the ease of use is good if you suddenly need to call a fox when out of breath from climbing a hill etc. I'll use the Tenterfield if the other one gets no response.

Also, the 'kissing' sound you make with your lips will get them looking and sometimes they'll come to that alone.

Varying from a loud and strong whistle to a pathetic sounding dying rabbit sound can prove irresistable.


Essentially, once a pair of eyes is spotted I'll try and set myself up in the assumption the fox is going to come in - if there's a rock or log I'll use this as both a rest and as cover. If it starts to come in, I'll turn off the hand held torch and turn on the gun mounted light and track with that. Some need to be called to a halt with an "Oi!" or similar. In the absence of a natural rest in open country I'll use the bipod or shoot from upright or sitting positions as necessary. Most shots are under 100m. Smile

Some foxes will not come, but will be happy to sit and listen - with a low light source I try to get into range. Some will look, then move, then look etc - if I get the impression they are going to keep this up I just leave them for another time. Onya

Pups - young pups at the den tend not to come in, but will mill around while you nail them, especially with a quieter rifle like the .17HMR. Older ones out hunting tend to hang together with their mates and can be called in together. My personal best was five coming in with three shot before the other two decamped. And that with the wind behind me - pure inexperience on their part. Smile

Older young foxes away from the den can often be found honing their skills around rabbit populations so over summer here if you find the rabbits you'll find the foxes - and a bunny squeal is exactly what they expect and want to hear so calling them is easy. These ones I have found are very inquisitive and can even sneak in to the sound of voices, so it pays to have a good look around and be ready if you've had a breather in the dark and been talking to your mate.

Mature foxes - hereabouts the ones I shoot are taken off sheep or cattle farms of 400 - 5000 acres. So utes and quad bikes are normal parts of their environment in more open paddocks but not in the more rugged terrain. There are three types - the YES type that trot in almost right away, the NO type who take flight straight away and the MAYBE type that either come in a little way then stop, or don't come in but don't take off. A change in call or a stalk into range is how I deal with them.

Lambing - when sheep are lambing foxes will be hanging around on account of the lambs and the rotting afterbirth. Some come in, some sit and can be stalked.

Dams - I've shot many foxes loitering around dams, either because there are waterbirds on it or I catch them out after frogs and bugs. These ones are normally shot where they are skulking rather than called in.

Potential stalk ruiners - trees with roosting cockies or magpies can catch you out. Birds that are disturbed can squawk a warning call and foxes seem to know this means danger. Moonlit night - they can see you. Wind behind you - they can smell you. Another one is lighting yourself up - holding your scanning light too close to your body can light you up, same goes for a light on a headband. When approaching rocks or trees etc for a shot, avoid light bouncing back onto you from those structures. And if you go with a mate tell him not to backlight you! Roll Eyes

Cunning fox tactics - I've had older foxes come in then try and loop around to the side or behind me so they can ID me or get a scent from a different direction. The trick is to quickly react to their move and get ahead. If there's enough ambient light to see or you have a low setting on your torch, you can move quickly and reappear, gun ready, where they aren't expecting you and the surpise they get can give you the seconds for a shot. I've also had many foxes dive into an intervening creek, travel out of sight and appear way off to the side to try and see or scent me.

Trees - I learned ages ago of the arborial abilities of the reynard and have shot a few out of trees. Trees with drooping branches on the ground can give a fox a ramp to climb into a fork or a horizontal branch. They also perch up on fallen gum trees, sometimes quite high up. So it pays to scan these areas for eyeshine and not just at ground level - sometimes the payoff will be a feral cat. devil