Forum vir die Jagter/Forum for the Hunter
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The importance of parallax adjustment in high-magnification rifle scopes
by Ludwig
Usually, most hunters that do not use high-magnification scopes for hunting are unfamiliar with the parallax phenomenon that occurs on rifle scopes. That is because scopes in the lower magnification range, normally 12x or less, usually do not have an external parallax adjustment, and are set in the factory to be parallax free at either 100 or 150 yards. The reason being that at lower magnification, the effect of parallax does not make that big a difference, although some slight form of parallax will be present at ranges closer or further from the factory set distance at which the scope is parallax free.
But, when you move to higher magnification scopes needed for long range hunting and shooting, or you even if you need to shoot accurately at extremely short ranges, parallax can make a very big difference, and these scopes almost always have an external parallax adjustment. It is important however to distinguish between the external parallax adjustment, and the diopter, or reticle focus. The diopter, situated on the ocular, is adjusted normally against a clear background, like blue sky, to bring the reticle into focus for your specific eyesight. Usually, once set, you do not have to adjust the diopter again, unless your eyesight deteriorates. The external parallax adjustment situated either on the side of the scope tube or on the objective, needs to be constantly corrected for at different ranges to your target. Sometimes, incorrectly referred to as focus, it is actually not primarily for bringing the target into focus, but to adjust for parallax first and foremost. Usually, when the parallax is corrected for, the target should also be in focus, but on some mid to lower end scopes, the focus might not actually be at its best when it is correctly set to be completely parallax free.
But what exactly is parallax, and how can you correct for it?
In a rifle scope, parallax occurs when the target image of the object is formed either in front of, or behind the reticle. Any eye movement from the optical axis of the scope will create parallax.
If the target image is formed on the same focal plane as the reticle, or if the eye is positioned in the optical axis of the scope, then there is no parallax, regardless of the position of the primary image.
This basically means, that when there is parallax, the slightest eye movement, can shift your apparent point of aim, and at long range, this can wreak havoc with your accuracy. Even at close range, with high magnification scopes, this can seriously deteriorate your accuracy.
Luckily, it is quite easy to identify parallax, and adjust for it if the scope is fitted with an external parallax adjustment.
When looking through your scope at your target, with a clear, no shadow sight picture, slightly move your head from side to side, or up and down, without disturbing or causing any movement to the rifle. Carefully watch your reticle. If the reticle moves from its original point of aim, even slightly, then you need to adjust for parallax. Keep adjusting for parallax until your reticle stays exactly on the point of aim when you are moving your head from side to side or up and down. Most scopes will always contain some parallax, even when adjusted for, but usually you can get rid of most of the parallax to a point where the practical difference is basically nullified.
A lot of scopes have markings on the parallax adjustment for different ranges. These however are seldom very accurate and only gives you a ballpark figure to bring you close, but you still need to check and correct for any apparent parallax. You can go to a range with known distances, and calibrate your scope’s parallax adjustment mechanism for each range, and mark the ranges on your adjustment mechanism. This is a good idea for long range hunting purposes, as it is often difficult to check for parallax and correctly adjust for it, in hunting situations, whereas if you calibrated your adjustment mechanism beforehand, you can just dial for the specific distance, and know that you have correctly adjusted for parallax.
The most important thing to remember is that parallax can wreak havoc with your accuracy, and it should become a habit, to always check for parallax, and correct if needed, before taking shots at game animals at long range.
.303 wrote:En op die naby skote is hy heel uit fokus uit? Klink soos 11.1.11 advies
.303 wrote:En op die naby skote is hy heel uit fokus uit? Klink soos 11.1.11 advies
Ek het dit vir die ou verduidelik hoe dit werk, hy skiet die meeste op 100 m so ek het het hom aangeraai om dit op 100 te los en net te verstel as hy rerig op verder afstande skiet. Die geweersmid is 'n oom wat al baie jare in die bedryf is, ek dink net hy was nie lus om te verduidelik nie en dit toe so gedoen.BRNO (Pierre) wrote:Ek weet Nikon Monarch 4-16*42 se infinity is vas gestel op 50yrd's, d.w.s. ongeveer 45m. Dit sal hoe genaamd nie sin maak om met die verstelling op 200m te skiet nie. Daai bok gaan lyk asof hy n permanente waserigheid voor hom het.
n Vaste paralaks van nikon is vas op 100m. Ek sou reken soos oom driepoot hierbo se, om jou verstelling afhangende van waar en wat jy jag, tussen 100m en 200m te hou, as jy nie gaan tyd he om dit te verstel nie.
Ek se nie dit is die geval hier nie, maar ek het al van die ouer manne tee gekom wat nie in die verstelbare vergroting teleskope glo nie, wat nog van paralaks. Die oom, alhoewel hy n goeie smid is, is dalk net bietjie oningelig, of glo dalk nog nie aan die nuwe geite nie.Flip nel wrote:Ek het dit vir die ou verduidelik hoe dit werk, hy skiet die meeste op 100 m so ek het het hom aangeraai om dit op 100 te los en net te verstel as hy rerig op verder afstande skiet. Die geweersmid is 'n oom wat al baie jare in die bedryf is, ek dink net hy was nie lus om te verduidelik nie en dit toe so gedoen.BRNO (Pierre) wrote:Ek weet Nikon Monarch 4-16*42 se infinity is vas gestel op 50yrd's, d.w.s. ongeveer 45m. Dit sal hoe genaamd nie sin maak om met die verstelling op 200m te skiet nie. Daai bok gaan lyk asof hy n permanente waserigheid voor hom het.
n Vaste paralaks van nikon is vas op 100m. Ek sou reken soos oom driepoot hierbo se, om jou verstelling afhangende van waar en wat jy jag, tussen 100m en 200m te hou, as jy nie gaan tyd he om dit te verstel nie.
BRNO (Pierre) wrote:Ek se nie dit is die geval hier nie, maar ek het al van die ouer manne tee gekom wat nie in die verstelbare vergroting teleskope glo nie, wat nog van paralaks. Die oom, alhoewel hy n goeie smid is, is dalk net bietjie oningelig, of glo dalk nog nie aan die nuwe geite nie.Flip nel wrote:Ek het dit vir die ou verduidelik hoe dit werk, hy skiet die meeste op 100 m so ek het het hom aangeraai om dit op 100 te los en net te verstel as hy rerig op verder afstande skiet. Die geweersmid is 'n oom wat al baie jare in die bedryf is, ek dink net hy was nie lus om te verduidelik nie en dit toe so gedoen.BRNO (Pierre) wrote:Ek weet Nikon Monarch 4-16*42 se infinity is vas gestel op 50yrd's, d.w.s. ongeveer 45m. Dit sal hoe genaamd nie sin maak om met die verstelling op 200m te skiet nie. Daai bok gaan lyk asof hy n permanente waserigheid voor hom het.
n Vaste paralaks van nikon is vas op 100m. Ek sou reken soos oom driepoot hierbo se, om jou verstelling afhangende van waar en wat jy jag, tussen 100m en 200m te hou, as jy nie gaan tyd he om dit te verstel nie.
Nee, die scope begin by 50yrds en infinity is aan die einde van die verstellings.BRNO (Pierre) wrote:Ek weet Nikon Monarch 4-16*42 se infinity is vas gestel op 50yrd's, d.w.s. ongeveer 45m
Dit weet ek. Wat ek bedoel is dat wanneer jy die paralaks verstelling stel dat hy op infinity staan, dan is die paralaks gelyk aan 50yrds.Johnnie De Wet wrote:Nee, die scope begin by 50yrds en infinity is aan die einde van die verstellings.BRNO (Pierre) wrote:Ek weet Nikon Monarch 4-16*42 se infinity is vas gestel op 50yrd's, d.w.s. ongeveer 45m